Exploring the West African textile collections of the Musee du Quai Branly: Part Four–Two Fon Royal Tunics.

“Gbecon-Huegbo workshop and Yemadje family: Ceremonial tunic (?), Fon style -  late 19th Century. Cotton 87.5 cm x 143. #71.1936.21.103 Musee du Quai Branly. Donated by Bernard Maupoil.”

“The kansawu is a “predator” tunic, designed to give freedom of movement to the arms and hands. However the presence of pockets means this is an item of clothing of the court, even a royal item. The quality and the extent of the embroidery, undoubtedly inspired by workshops in the Yoruba and Hausa territory, indicate its value and the rank of its wearer. This item of clothing was a joint work between the weavers of Gbekon Huegbo and Hounli, the cutting workshop and the Yemadje embroiderers of the Hountondji district.” [Abomey, Benin Republic.]

text by Joseph Adandé (Source:  Gaëlle Beaujean-Baltzer ed. Artistes D’Abomey – Fondation Zinsou, 2009).

“Gnimavo family  and Yemadje family: Prime Minister’s robe, Fon style -  between 1818 and 1858. Cotton and bone. 103.5 cm x 103.5cm x 10cm. #71.1936.21.66. Musee du Quai Branly. Donated by Bernard Maupoil.”

“Robe of Xagla, the migan of Guez0 (1818-1858). On the front a goats’ skull, from which the migan drank alcohol in private, before the sacrifices. Inside, a human jawbone, on which was eaten the powder of strength. the goats’ head has been daubed with human blood. (…) Robe worn when an enemy king or a particularly redoubtable individual was about to be exexcuted.” (Inv. Musee de l’Homme by B. Maupoil, 1936.) “

(Source:  Gaëlle Beaujean-Baltzer ed. Artistes D’Abomey – Fondation Zinsou, 2009). I would urge anyone to track down this remarkable and beautifully designed catalogue/book.

More images from old Dahomey

“Féticheuses du Caméléon” – vintage postcard, circa 1900-10. Republic of Benin.

“Chef du Canton d’Abomey” – vintage postcard circa 1900. Republic of Benin.

Former Amazons (redoubtable warriors) – vintage postcard, circa 1900-10, photographer Edmond Fortier.  Republic of Benin.

“Group of Fetish chiefs.” – vintage postcard, circa 1900-10, photographer Edmond Fortier.  Republic of Benin.

Click on the images to enlarge.

“Kings Umbrellas, Dahomey”

To follow the recent post on appliqué banners from the Kingdom of Dahomey, here is a rare postcard from circa 1900 (Publisher and photographer (?) R.H.A. Prince) showing a partial view of a truly appliqued ceremonial umbrella from the royal court at Abomey.

Click on the photo to enlarge.

Exploring the West African textile collections of the Musee du Quai Branly: Part Three – Fon banners from the Kingdom of Dahomey

These remarkable appliqué banners are among the most important items of royal court art from the Kingdom of Dahomey, now in the Republic of Benin. Until they transferred their role to the making of tourist arts in the mid twentieth century, families of specialist textile workers at the court in Abomey supplied dramatic wall hangings that praised the king and illustrated key aspects of his social identity and achievements. The Quai Branly collection, without doubt the most important outside the Palace Museum in Abomey itself, includes early C20th examples and some pieces presented to the French ruler Napoleon III in 1856.

The banner above, made by the Yémadjé family in 1911 or 1912 as a copy of a banner in the palace collection, shows King Glèlè, represented as the lion devouring his enemies, at lower left a male panther, mythical ancestor of the royal dynasty, around them the soldiers of the king capturing his enemies. (Source:  Gaëlle Beaujean-Baltzer ed. Artistes D’Abomey – Fondation Zinsou, 2009)

Above – one of the banners presented to Napoleon III in 1856.

Gabin Djimassé, a Benin historian, wrote the following brief history of the banners:

“Unlike the forge, appliqué cloth had not been present in Danhomè. It bacame known in the kingdom in the reign of King Agadja (1711-1742). The craft owes its origin to this king who captured two master appliqué workers in the region of Avranku, in the north of Porto-Novo, and set them up at  Abomey, entirely at his own service. they were Hantan and Zinflou (Hankantan, Zinflou mondo), names which translate literally as “The sepals of cereals which served to make fire are finished, and darkness has set in.”

It is important to note that the appliqué cloth of the two craftsmen was made on a background of raffia, rather than cloth, which is used nowadays. the king took time to supply cloth to these families of craftsmen, for it was one of the rare and precious products that was imported, exchanged by French traders for slaves.

This art progressed greatly in the reign of King Agonglo (1789-1797), especially wit h the arrival of Yemadje in Abomey. Unlike Hantan and Zinflou, Yemadje was endowed and “married” by King Agonglo. This unusual situation made the man an ahossi, that is to say a “wife” of the king. as such he had access to the whole palace, including the interior court which was generally reserved for the king and his wives. The king led his private life in the inner court. Through such proximity with the king, Yemadje finally supplanted Hantan and Zinflou. As from then he became the principal appliqué worker, to whom all royal commissions were confided.” (Source:  Gaëlle Beaujean-Baltzer ed. Artistes D’Abomey – Fondation Zinsou, 2009)

The Musee du Quai Branly, Paris, holds one of the world’s most significant collections of West African textiles, with particular strength in some of the former French colonies. The entire collection is accessible on line  via their website. Check the textiles button then enter the country name in the box below.

Artistes d'Abomey at musee du quai Branly

Until 31 January 2010 there is a superb exhibition at the musee du quai Branly, Paris, focussing on the court artists who supplied the dramatic sculpture, banners, robes etc. to the powerful Fon kingdom at Abomey in the Republic of Benin. Alongside iconic statues such as the celebrated royal "bocio" figures the exhibition provides African textile enthusiasts this provides a rare opportunity to see part of the worlds two major collections of the celebrated Fon appliqué banners, including some examples (not shown here) presented by the Fon king to the French Emperor Napoleon III in 1865.

Also of note are two fine examples of embroidered robes worn at the Abomey court. Embroidered on strip woven cloth, as in this piece, or on imported fabric, the specific cut and embroidery layout of these robes is distinctive to the Fon, despite affinities with other types in the family of West African prestige robes.

This strip woven cloth is the only example I know of in the style. According to the collection data it is said to have been woven by Yavedo and Goyomo, two wives of the Fon king Ghezo and formed part of the presentation to Napoleon III in 1865.

There is an interesting booklet "Artistes d'Abomey" (Beaux Arts editions) that accompanies the show, and a catalogue with the same title that appears not yet to be available. More info here.