French National Archives–historic images of West African textile production.

Now online from the French Archives nationale d’outre-mer are over 5000 images taken before the 1960s in France’s former African colonies. Among the other treasures in this important resource are a number of superb images of aspects of textile production in West Africa. A few highlights are shown below.

“The weaver prepares his thread” Bobo-Dioulasso, Burkina Faso, 1930-60.

“Young Bobo girl spins thread”, photographer Berthier (Joseph, Louis), Burkina Faso (1945-1961)

“Loom” Burkina Faso, 1959 – some kind of craft training school probably.

“Dyers” photographer Chéron (Georges, Gustave, René) (1882 – ?), Kaya, Burkina Faso, (1908-1934)

“Dyers” – Bobo Dioulasso, Burkina Faso.

“Tukolor weavers” photographer Puigaudeau (Odette du) (1894-1991), Selibaby (Guidimakha),Mauretania, 1934.

“Hausa embroiderer”, Niger, before 1930.

“Weaving fibres of “liane floria”” photographer Krull (Germaine) (1897-1985), Bafoussam, Cameroon, 1943

“Diola-Floup weaver” Ziguinchor, Senegal, before 1960.

“Weavers” photographer Verger (Pierre) (1902-1996), Bamako, Mali, 1935/36.

“Weaving bands of ‘galak’” Chad, 1932.

“Weaver prepares his equipment” photographer Marcel Monnier, Bondoukou, Ivory Coast, 1892.

“Sudanic loom” photographer Marcel Monnier, Ivory Coast, 1892.

Exhibition: Born of the Indian Ocean: The Silks of Madagascar at the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Now Open

Exploring the ROM’s unique collection of Textiles from Madagascar

Middle East / South Asia Special Exhibit case, 3rd Floor Lee-Chin Crystal.

Although an island, Madagascar has never been isolated. Situated in the Indian Ocean, at the crossroads of trade networks, its people have long had close ties to Asia, Africa, and Europe. Nowhere is this more visible than in their vibrant textile arts.

The Royal Ontario Museum is home to one of the world's best collections of silks from highland Madagascar, gathered under the curatorial expertise of Dr. Sarah Fee of ROM Textiles & Fashions. This exhibit takes advantage of this unparalleled collection to explore wildly coloured and patterned 19^th-century wraps known as akotifahana. Great works of art, these cloths also had great ceremonial value. The exhibition presents Dr. Fee’s new research into their recent roots in the Indian Ocean... and beyond.

Links:

ROM Magazine article (PDF)

Research:
In Living Colour: the ROM’s unique collection of textiles from Madagascar

Cloth of the month: A unique Wodaabe women’s wrapper cloth.

FR556 - Wodaabe women's ceremonial wrapper cloths were usually embroidered on narrow strip woven dark indigo dyed cloth from Hausa weavers in northern Nigeria, and more recently on imported black fabric. However this example, which to my knowledge is unique, is based on a Soninke strip weave stitch resist patterned cloth from Senegal. Collected recently in Mali it dates from circa 1960. In excellent condition. Measurement: 55 inches x 37 ins, 140cm x 94 cm. PRICE: US$475

More details here.

"Fanti Women in Full Dress"

Vintage postcard: "Fanti Women in Full Dress" Photographer Jacob Vitta, Takwa, Ghana, circa 1910

Tioup, tak, etc. - Couleurs textiles du Sénégal : Some photos.

French African textile expert Anne Grosfilley who kindly sent these photographs wrote -  “Here are some photographs on the exhibition about dyeing in Sénégal. It is superb, full of Colours. It is set as a series of portraits, so you can read the story of the people behind the crafts, and learn about their training and everyday Life. All the aspects of dyeing are presented, from traditional plants to synthetic dyes, from dyeing to tailoring. The exhibition ends in a tailor workshop, where you can have a go trying on boubous of different styles. All the steps of the transformation of the cloth allow to understand the process to get the different patterns. Unfortunately, there is no catalogue, but a series of lectures and workshops.  This is an exhibition I recommend, and the Clermont Ferrand Bargoin Textile museum is a place to know, as they have a big interest in Africa. Their next project is to host the exhibition of the second edition of FITE (International Festival of Extraordinary Textiles), and after that they curate an exhibition on unusual Moroccan carpets.”

The exhibition “Tioup, tak, etc. - Couleurs textiles du Sénégal” continues at Musée Bargoin, Clermont-Ferrand, France until March 31. There is a programme of events, details here.

Click on the photos to enlarge. All photos copyright Anne Grosfilley. If you don’t already have it, do lookout for Anne’s book which is still available via Amazon.

Exhibition: Tioup, tak, etc. - Couleurs textiles du Sénégal

Musée Bargoin, Clermont-Ferrand, France.

06 novembre 2013 > 30 mars 2014

“Le musée Bargoin et l’association Les Tissus de Guelack proposent à travers cette exposition une immersion dans le monde haut en couleurs du textile sénégalais. Cheminement d’une atmosphère à l’autre, de la brousse à la ville, rencontre des teinturiers en devenir aux maîtres-artisans confirmés, des couturiers ingénieux aux élégantes qui arborent ces tenues colorées ; voici l’un des visages du Sénégal...

Cette exposition est le résultat d’un travail collectif engagé depuis plusieurs années. L’équipe de l’association s’est rendue sur place à diverses reprises pour mener à bien son action au cœur du village de Guelack et collecter en vue de cette exposition de nombreux textiles, échantillons techniques, enregistrements sonores et prises de vue pour le musée Bargoin. Le volet sociologique de cette exposition n’échappera à personne. Bien au-delà d’une appréhension esthétique et technique, c’est tout un pan économique, relationnel et sociétal que nous révèlent ces créateurs de couleurs.

PARCOURS...

… Focus sur un atelier textile original en milieu rural
L’atelier textile de Guelack, intégré dans un vaste projet de société solidaire et écologique en plein Sahel, permet aux femmes peules de diversifier leur activité économique alternant statut d’éleveuse et celui de teinturière.

… La couleur à la ville : attacheurs et teinturiers en action
A Dakar, vaste fourmilière, attacheurs, teinturiers, porteurs d’eau, tapeurs, tailleurs, brodeurs s’affairent pour répondre à une demande forte. Les bazins tioup sont à la mode : les motifs sont sans cesse renouvelés grâce à d’incroyables techniques de teinture à réserve.

… Du bazin riche au boubou chic, petite leçon d’élégance sénégalaise
Au Sénégal, le textile occupe une place primordiale, indissociable de la notion de séduction, et participe d’un véritable art de vivre. Le vendredi et les jours de fête, on porte la tenue traditionnelle.

• Tioup / thioub / tioup / thiub / tchoup = "teindre", en wolof
• Tak / takk = "attacher, ligaturer", en wolof (techniques de teinture à réserve)
• Etc. = « et le reste » en latin
• Bazin : tissu en coton damassé utilisé en Afrique de l’Ouest, notamment pour les boubous.”

More information here

Senegalese Men’s Robes – some early C20th images.

“Trader from Cayor”, circa 1910, photographer Edmond Fortier.  Indigo resist dyed robe.

“Allioune Sô, chief of the Fulani of Sine”, circa 1910, photographer Edmond Fortier.

“Wolof chief and his griot,” circa 1910, photographer Edmond Fortier.

“Fulani chief” circa 1900, photographer Edmond Fortier.

“Thiès. Three elegant men” circa 1900-10, photographer/publisher E.H, Thiès.

“Thiès. Young Wolofs”, circa 1900-10. Photographer/publisher Harimann.

 

“Dakar (Senegal). Senufo types” circa 1900-10. Photographer/publisher Albaret.

“West Africa. Arrival of a Grand Marabout” circa 1900-20, photographer unknown. A marabout is an Islamic scholar and teacher.

 

“Dakar. Senegalese man, festival dress” circa 1900. Photographer/publisher P.H. & Co.

“Dakar. Senegalese students.” circa 1900-10. Photographer unknown.

All photos author’s collection.