tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38428340587156982042024-02-06T19:12:35.415-08:00Adire African TextilesAdire African Textiles is a small London gallery devoted solely to researching and promoting the vintage textile traditions of sub-Saharan Africa.Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.comBlogger355125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-59651524894337739342016-08-09T06:52:00.001-07:002016-08-09T06:52:13.687-07:00New Book: “Adire Cloth in Nigeria 1971–2016”<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTh0bgLoH14QLFQVBiOKE3rQ0C1wLmh44WRgvF-dC3fZ_HW0XNXph7rXZkYRItJfYeCcs-1FzpkUiYh7NllhhMTJ1tvvYZjAi3EBBnGPHN6mFa4G-biUU1Yh4LqjudeInG8hSVJTXjHeL0/s1600-h/img089%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="img089" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="img089" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gecN3Umh5jc/V6ngAlpCwrI/AAAAAAAAPhc/prvC_hspqdE/img089_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="245" /></a></p> <p>In part an updated version of Doig Simmonds and Nancy Stansfield’s classic 1971 book on adire, this new work is without doubt the  most useful and comprehensive book on the Yoruba tradition of indigo resist dyeing to date.  Although published as a print on demand book  and with budget limitations apparent in the reproduction of some images the authors add new material such and have drawn together the most important of previous sources, including Jane Barbour’s important articles, and an interesting article by John Picton that even I had missed. I have scanned the back cover, contents page and a typical page below. Click on the photos to enlarge. The book may be ordered direct from Doig at <a href="mailto:doigds@gmail.com">doigds@gmail.com</a> priced at GBP18 plus postage. </p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xGsnF7Ugtqc/V6ngBCPkpyI/AAAAAAAAPhg/ZHRZtNeuwGg/s1600-h/img090%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="img090" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="img090" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Nfs4iQoodao/V6ngBl1NUuI/AAAAAAAAPhk/ZYRfjIzniC0/img090_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="246" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-82gE4AT0WjQ/V6ngB3c5r_I/AAAAAAAAPho/u97Tzl15STs/s1600-h/img091%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="img091" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="img091" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikuRe5c4VuhWMC2zcDhkTgm7tQjkflUUHP9dicYxDrS_gT34rIplLxq39uzkyR4ibUBgK3qZ-7fLcJIikcxJz8m7UUKXBJkxjB74j_DiClbwLlrFrncogjXL38xF8svsQM5YG5CI29InGP/?imgmax=800" width="344" height="246" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Bhzpsd3zIws/V6ngC7op4EI/AAAAAAAAPhw/xYY2rEKafTc/s1600-h/img092%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="img092" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="img092" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Msz1ndpQwxM/V6ngDGE6EoI/AAAAAAAAPh0/m6MWE1EFHtA/img092_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="243" /></a></p>Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-7906299544310819522016-07-14T07:36:00.001-07:002016-07-14T07:36:07.032-07:00A Unique Yoruba Silk and Indigo Agbada<p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CzMn6FOPgAg/V4ejRhjB1TI/AAAAAAAAPeY/EQ8i5Qwjhag/s1600-h/AGB126%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="AGB126" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="AGB126" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0D2i9mnu3Zw/V4ejSHgkugI/AAAAAAAAPec/euCVCH3l3C0/AGB126_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="214" /></a></p> <p>The unique feature of this classic late C19th Yoruba robe is the cloth from which it was tailored. One of the most prestigious and expensive patterns of Yoruba aso oke strip weave was dark indigo hand spun cotton with a very fine check pattern of lighter blue or white cotton. This pattern was called <i>etu</i>, meaning "guineafowl" after the bird's speckled plumage. <i>Etu</i>, for those with a deep understanding of Yoruba cultural tradition, formed one of a triumuvirate of prestige textiles, along with local wild silk <i>sanyan</i>, and magenta silk, called <i>alaari</i>, that was imported across the Sahara to northern Nigeria from the C1th until the start of the C20th. Sometimes the fine check of <i>etu</i> was changed to a larger check, then called <i>petuje</i>, which can be roughly translated as "surpasses etu".</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LYuohPpNNH8/V4ejS1OyRZI/AAAAAAAAPeg/6wKSlJ11RS4/s1600-h/AGB126d%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="AGB126d" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="AGB126d" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jo5v1vPGFRo/V4ejTbV79uI/AAAAAAAAPek/sZpVJS79dGI/AGB126d_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="238" /></a></p> <p> Over the years I have collected a very small number of cloths, certainly less than ten, where the lighter coloured cotton that forms the check pattern against the dark indigo ground of <i>etu</i> is replaced with magenta <i>alaari</i> silk, thereby referencing two of the three prestige textiles at once. However this robe is the only known example where expensive <i>alaari</i> silk has been used to form a large check <i>petuje</i> pattern that was used to tailor a man's robe. The robe is sewn by hand throughout and decorated with a well executed hand embroidery in a classically Yoruba style. Condition is excellent. Dates from circa 1900. Measurement: Length 49 inches, width 102 inches/ length 125 cm, width 260 cm</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Sik8BaitrSw/V4ejU16Y4xI/AAAAAAAAPeo/wLs8hfLEB70/s1600-h/AGB126back%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="AGB126back" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="AGB126back" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--X4YAUV_TIQ/V4ejVfA9BPI/AAAAAAAAPes/77QjfKz9t5E/AGB126back_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="198" /></a></p>Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-10915031367680272132016-02-10T02:55:00.001-08:002016-02-10T02:55:26.330-08:00Some comments on the diisa<p>Happy to get some interesting comments on yesterday’s post on the <em>diisa,</em> a long fringed indigo men’s shawl, through my <a href="https://www.facebook.com/duncan.clarke.106">Facebook</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/adireafricantextiles/">Instagram</a> pages.</p> <p>Malian artist and master dyer Aboubakar Fofana commented:</p> <p>“these two photos are amazing. The dissa shawl was such an important piece for a man from this region. It was given to a young man by his mother when he got married. She would have saved for this shawl since her son was very young- they were a lot of work and were worth the same as 10 head of cattle. They were indigo dyed, and when the man died, this shawl would be his shroud. The celestial blue of indigo would help him pass from this world to heaven. I'm very proud to be making a modern interpretation of the dissa, with its long fringes, and I hope I am carrying on the tradition of something important in my culture.”</p> <p>And Belgian art historian Patricia Gerimont, who is working on a book on indigo dyeing in Mali, supplied this information on indigo in Burkina Faso (my translation.)</p> <p>“the indigo shawls and wrappers in Burkina are dyed by a specific group called the Yarsé, and also by other groups of Marka dyers. The Yarsé speak Mossi but are of Marka origin, you also find them in Dogon country under the name Yélin.”</p> <p>And here is another photo of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samori_Ture">Samory Touré</a> wearing his <em>diisa</em>.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8qnTTiUs3l8/VrsXGfMzFcI/AAAAAAAAPSw/ol3IIubAkQA/s1600-h/mali003%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="mali003" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="mali003" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nNvuQSuNPhE/VrsXG1HiPuI/AAAAAAAAPS0/WjplQN8mArw/mali003_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="541" /></a></p>Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-89282939390073284162016-02-09T03:38:00.001-08:002016-02-09T03:38:20.167-08:00The Diisa, an indigo scarf of the Sahel.<p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ONHTK1q9QkI/VrnPnAwHfdI/AAAAAAAAPSE/Qa6QooUUT4Q/s1600-h/mali041%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="mali041" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="mali041" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qYJmAaEBX8o/VrnPn-176bI/AAAAAAAAPSI/BnQOEHBIF3s/mali041_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="541" /></a></p> <p>The photo, by photographer Edmond Fortier, shows the Dioula warlord <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samori_Ture">Samory Touré</a> wearing on his head a plain fringed indigo headscarf called a <em>diisa.</em> In a brief discussion of these distinctive cloths in his book <em>Textiles du Mali</em> (Bamako 2003) Bernhard Gardi suggests these cloths were usually a mark of rank. Similar cloths, worn around the hips by young Dogon men, are seen in the photo below, also by Fortier.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lAjGz0soGoU/VrnPoeL0V0I/AAAAAAAAPSM/q4rK5CorGuc/s1600-h/mali039%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="mali039" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="mali039" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w_YOUYZWR6U/VrnPolTwiWI/AAAAAAAAPSQ/FWMkqg8JQCM/mali039_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="537" /></a></p> <p>And by a Wolof trader below:</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ag1OVD-vUp8/VrnPo8ii_kI/AAAAAAAAPSU/8xg5eBZ3_ZU/s1600-h/mali033%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="mali033" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="mali033" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--ZyWkVopqB4/VrnPpRwgd2I/AAAAAAAAPSY/hH9-c9_Iito/mali033_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="524" /></a></p> <p>Looking at the group of long fringed cloths from Burkina Faso that I posted on my site last week, one of which is shown below, and the remainder <a href="http://www.adireafricantextiles.com/newgallery.htm">here</a>, it seems likely that the tie-dye patterned examples form a previously unnoticed regional variation on this wider tradition of men’s prestige cloths.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yxqIsF5n5uk/VrnPqP6VtNI/AAAAAAAAPSc/90b6ihp5mf4/s1600-h/FR584d%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="FR584d" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="FR584d" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6tRet5vPfDc/VrnPqixGfZI/AAAAAAAAPSg/PZONnq2lYdE/FR584d_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="457" /></a></p>Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-89638588905328813622016-02-02T05:29:00.001-08:002016-02-02T05:29:42.987-08:00Dogon uldebe cloths<p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R4VRP4rR_JU/VrCvQFTxFRI/AAAAAAAAPRg/rz5wHCMyJ4k/s1600-h/12592695_10206903472117602_5639065769310138982_n%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="12592695_10206903472117602_5639065769310138982_n" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="12592695_10206903472117602_5639065769310138982_n" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4aECXoNea0Q/VrCvRAcTKcI/AAAAAAAAPRk/XEFcEdsnitk/12592695_10206903472117602_5639065769310138982_n_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="231" /></a></p> <p>Dogon elders wearing indigo and white cotton uldebe cloths. These cloths are still important among the Dogon as a mark of high status and will play an important role in funeral rites. Photo by Boukary Konate on Facebook. </p>Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-49445093926043929712016-01-28T03:00:00.001-08:002016-01-28T03:00:45.151-08:00Mossi Indigo Shawls<p>Rare variant style of vintage Mossi indigo shawls from Burkina Faso with 10 inch long braided fringes and tie dye patterning. There is a deluge of mostly very mediocre indigo dyed cloths coming out of Burkina at the moment but careful searching can uncover some gems amongst them. Message me for sizes and prices.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SHgJ_lGlDlc/Vqn0y09bzVI/AAAAAAAAPP0/8QwIMylFioM/s1600-h/mossi01%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="mossi01" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="mossi01" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7_QbuCUXqDVIzr1KDZ8qrK98EubEqC2SSl-Tg1AKru72vXfGRNXgSgDB6iuv67dfb1L-a1aVD1i48iTcFOG2xDEyW584aGGFu0bCSmy94Gk5CUaYkrA-yaCsSh53yx6yq-v0EQymdwPEe/?imgmax=800" width="344" height="457" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WHUZLVBs9tc/Vqn0z6rtjWI/AAAAAAAAPQA/unccMMOGNa4/s1600-h/mossi02%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="mossi02" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="mossi02" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6LwOrnBasaI/Vqn00WV9xlI/AAAAAAAAPQI/kZSAWVqMjBI/mossi02_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="457" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R-3nYjeObOs/Vqn00wzkhRI/AAAAAAAAPQQ/ic6vsKurBtQ/s1600-h/mossi03%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="mossi03" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="mossi03" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s9PlNJi-PBY/Vqn01fJUU7I/AAAAAAAAPQY/ZiyPUKB4kZ0/mossi03_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="457" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SLxpb5pLo4k/Vqn01ze3b5I/AAAAAAAAPQc/yXVrFA9qxjY/s1600-h/mossi04%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="mossi04" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="mossi04" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jORr4ymO9AY/Vqn02EKvtRI/AAAAAAAAPQo/jsiA9MEfyvE/mossi04_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="457" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LD1f8kYbng0/Vqn02o3c4WI/AAAAAAAAPQw/N2RJFdkg7zs/s1600-h/mossi05%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="mossi05" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="mossi05" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RZhIYIfocH8/Vqn02-DH9HI/AAAAAAAAPQ4/H8u1bpfihZA/mossi05_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="457" /></a></p>Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-87096643444374631252016-01-14T03:02:00.001-08:002016-01-14T03:02:16.674-08:00New book: “Indigo Quilts–30 Quilts from the Poos Collection” by Kay and Lori Lee Triplett<p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nsapgIsouIk/VpeANPM5PcI/AAAAAAAAPPM/1rswyOYHK48/s1600-h/indigoquilts1%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="indigoquilts1" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="indigoquilts1" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LrRYRrr9aic/VpeANvuIKPI/AAAAAAAAPPQ/cJDXhFpRKkc/indigoquilts1_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="202" /></a></p> <p>I usually steer clear of commenting on books about African-American quilting and apparent affinities with aspects of African textiles as it is a controversial topic that, to be honest, doesn’t directly impact on my own interest in understanding more about the history of West African textiles themselves.  However this welcome book by quilt and textile collectors Kay and Lori Lee Triplett breaks new ground by looking instead to the indigo fabric used in making the quilts and a detailed, archive research based, exploration of the role of African-American slaves and ex-slaves in the early production of indigo resist dyed cloth in the Americas. This is preceded by a stimulating overview of the history of indigo dyeing within West Africa, and illustrated with both West African textiles and a selection of remarkable antique indigo and white quilts from their collection. </p>Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-19661663745682120582016-01-13T03:41:00.001-08:002016-01-13T03:41:22.295-08:00Wodaabe Men’s Festival Attire, Niger.<p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0SD8JZt_r9k/VpY30cOD8dI/AAAAAAAAPOE/FrXaUfsFAhg/s1600-h/282846_10151228115317106_1061589544_n%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="282846_10151228115317106_1061589544_n" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="282846_10151228115317106_1061589544_n" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WVJ6GegvNfQ/VpY31FAmv6I/AAAAAAAAPOI/ythbN9T3jrc/282846_10151228115317106_1061589544_n_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="493" /></a></p> <p>Photo taken from the book “Nomads who cultivate beauty” by Mette Bovin (Nordiska Afrikainstitutet, 2001) in my view the most interesting of many books on the Wodaabe nomads of Niger. Bovon notes that this picture was taken in 1975 by a local photographer Yacoubou in Diffa. She noted – ‘Young men nowadays laugh when they see this photo, and comment “How old-fashioned they look, the mirrors are too big and hanging too low. Our fashion today is much smarter, more chic. But look, all three men’s faces are pretty.”’</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-krFdqORny40/VpY31VuSWLI/AAAAAAAAPOQ/9snw8GvQhU0/s1600-h/AGB110%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="AGB110" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="AGB110" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-btpl18vkY3I/VpY314qkmSI/AAAAAAAAPOY/AZ8w7U6fhn0/AGB110_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="571" /></a></p> <p>AGB110 - Fine example of a open-sided hand embroidered tunic of a type worn by young men of the nomadic Wodaabe people of Niger for certain important ceremonial occasions. The embroidery patterns are named after aspects of nomadic lifestyle such as the layout of the camp site, and are executed on a backing cloth of very narrow (1cm) width strip woven cloth, the most expensive and prestigious fabric available. It was woven by Hausa weavers in the vicinity of Kano in northern Nigeria for sale to the nomadic peoples of the Sahel and Sahara to the north.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdZyUVf4KYSBh9E3gUiXWT3jOGfT8vTupoLBXgPWJZp07sW25wzsn4pQD6M-ta-WZmCih-qS6jGXvEoq2OQvx05eTLtbGdwqu8DqA5DdX8GVLN96I3a04MaALe_vi3IAXqk-lMuPzh0G03/s1600-h/AGB110back%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="AGB110back" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="AGB110back" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uySswBJGK5s/VpY33PFyv5I/AAAAAAAAPOo/Gb60N9y1H_0/AGB110back_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="563" /></a></p> <p> The tunics were worn over a skirt fashioned from a wrapped goat skin and were adorned with hanging jewellery and other finery in an effort to draw the eye as the man danced in a row among the other young men of his clan. See the photgraph at the foot of this page taken from the book “Nomads who cultivate beauty” by Mette Bovin (Nordiska Afrikainstitutet, 2001). A notable feature of this example is the asymmetric layout of the embroidery on the reverse of the robe. Wodaabe tunic of this quality are now becoming rather hard to source and increasingly rare. Condition: excellent. Age: circa mid C20th. Measures: 67 inches x 18 (+ arms), 170cm x 46. PRICE: US$2175.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rB9UB-QfbHQ/VpY33l9pUUI/AAAAAAAAPOw/CrKPpcmFIxk/s1600-h/AGB110d%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="AGB110d" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="AGB110d" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jaHx_YRnmAQ/VpY34MEpQAI/AAAAAAAAPO4/5m9B_Cd7g4g/AGB110d_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="175" /></a></p>Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-59327728580469259782016-01-08T02:09:00.001-08:002016-01-08T02:09:36.430-08:00Ewe Kente in Hali Magazine #186<p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H9AD6xx2O-g/Vo-K3TREWDI/AAAAAAAAPNs/6cOXkQG3zSc/s1600-h/186CoverMedium-330x440%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="186Cover ed.indd" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="186Cover ed.indd" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U5X81fdmJhs/Vo-K3rFTPiI/AAAAAAAAPNw/ol59_x7plIk/186CoverMedium-330x440_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="457" /></a></p> <p>Issue #186, out now and available from <a href="http://www.hali.com/issues/winter-2015/">Hali</a>, includes my article on Ewe kente and a review by John Picton of my book on the Karun Thakar collection of African Textiles. Cloth shown is a rare variant from the vicinity of the town of Kpalime in Togo. Also includes my review of the Kongo exhibition at the Met. </p>Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-27892604101753882642016-01-06T07:07:00.001-08:002016-01-06T07:07:09.679-08:00Today at the shop….<p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ObUgsApC8wg/Vo0tjoJuvnI/AAAAAAAAPMg/MDF5FZ6XoCs/s1600-h/P1010250%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="P1010250" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="P1010250" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5aNpWzAc7hI/Vo0tkFUB_2I/AAAAAAAAPMk/0ubDY_Sd2DM/P1010250_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="275" /></a></p> <p>At the shop: fine mid century Ewe kente woman's cloth from Ghana. Visit us online at <a href="http://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adireafricantextiles.com%2F&h=ZAQHHfmuzAQGovoF8pX3QmGmkn7GjiupSZmIqeHPQQJdcPw&enc=AZNLIkaiJL6IUq2VCNcjc4pfKJL-_TjgTr30pEKbdgp1le3i4YK1sGXYD84E3imCZRAZNbIcfti27X0aSb2Qia06lOklIzYombP3dlLtugQOyoJltSOUVYKJY7fz4Pvc-WbihMCr7uLKkn9muX6PGqFARBq6WdHc2BOat3NHho6S554d6-WvXj9fluqE7jEGaHw&s=1">www.adireafricantextiles.com</a> or at Alfies Antique Market in London.</p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X_JEt5dzKJs/Vo0tkr2-s_I/AAAAAAAAPMs/4LZQxlVkVUA/s1600-h/P1010244%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="P1010244" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="P1010244" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9GCHkTiCc-I/Vo0tlPW2okI/AAAAAAAAPM0/5YC1DIg2K9M/P1010244_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="259" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nE3njBr8tO4/Vo0tlrce6SI/AAAAAAAAPNA/Fps_ngYTWpM/s1600-h/P1010245%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="P1010245" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="P1010245" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TPr0bdvX5h0/Vo0tmHLLTKI/AAAAAAAAPNE/Mdr15Sd6Cds/P1010245_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="259" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SDTcaPzvv14/Vo0tmVK54YI/AAAAAAAAPNM/7bLFJdxaB5E/s1600-h/P1010246%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="P1010246" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="P1010246" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Hq3LCw-ksQw/Vo0tmyy1mTI/AAAAAAAAPNU/i2eX4hjRAsc/P1010246_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="259" /></a></p>Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-19739323597281762692015-12-08T05:53:00.001-08:002015-12-08T05:53:54.466-08:00An Indigo Strip Weave Robe from Togo<p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0uOcxN5QSZM/Vmbg5weiDUI/AAAAAAAAPLE/rZSjjw1KoA0/s1600-h/AGB114%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="AGB114" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="AGB114" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yuyzXfCLfWU/Vmbg6bSZppI/AAAAAAAAPLI/OmdxQVj52Fk/AGB114_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="457" /></a></p> <p>AGB114 - Much prized by lovers of indigo, these smock-like robes were worn by hunters and other senior men in the forested central and northern regions of the Benin Republic and Togo. A rare image of one being worn by the Paramount Chief of the Cabrais (today Kabiye or Kabye) prople, circa 1930, is shown below. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h97OVuH-qG0/Vmbg60alhbI/AAAAAAAAPLQ/m0uqCBpFErw/s1600-h/Cabrais%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Cabrais" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="Cabrais" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cohr6OUSPoI/Vmbg7DS-HuI/AAAAAAAAPLY/u3LcflY7Ewg/Cabrais_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="511" /></a></p> <p>Hand-tailored from three different patterned indigo hand spun cotton thread strip weaves with a plain indigo in a lighter shade lining the shoulders and hem. Ten years or so ago there were quite a few of these around in Accra but more recently they have become rather scarce in acceptable condition and prices for rare unpatched and unstained examples as good as this have risen accordingly.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--qHRmFKPN7Y/Vmbg7hySLxI/AAAAAAAAPLg/OPQlksqfg1c/s1600-h/AGB114d%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="AGB114d" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="AGB114d" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6yWx5K46JKo/Vmbg8BaWPKI/AAAAAAAAPLo/v8BjM9S3C4c/AGB114d_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="170" /></a></p> <p> Condition: excellent. Age: first half of C20th. Measures: approx. 43 inches x 57, 110cm x 145.</p> <p>Click on the photos to enlarge. To see this and other robes we have for sale click <a href="http://www.adireafricantextiles.com/agbadagallery.htm" target="_blank">here</a>.</p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-89010224285805114432015-11-19T06:35:00.001-08:002015-11-19T06:35:01.127-08:00Kongo: Power and Majesty–the blog<p>Some especially interesting comments on textile use by the eminent historian Phyllis M.Martin.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ESdhVDEtPq4/Vk3eEFn4MuI/AAAAAAAAPJ0/IRoymqPb5QA/s1600-h/DP364434%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="DP364434" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="DP364434" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hpm9GveEuro/Vk3eE3w9SCI/AAAAAAAAPJ8/3Y_6Is95HrI/DP364434_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="231" /></a></p> <p><strong>“Kristen Windmuller-Luna:</strong> In your essay in the <a href="http://store.metmuseum.org/exhibition-catalogues/kongo-power-and-majesty/invt/80028377">exhibition catalogue</a>, you write extensively about cloth's role in the Loango economy. How did that system function?</p> <p><strong>Phyllis M. Martin:</strong> We have to consider that cloth is a way of storing value. Cloth was also an essential ingredient in society and culture. It was not just a piece of fabric with wonderful weaving and designs; it was much more than that. When the Dutch arrived around 1600, they talk about how the king—the Maloango—had warehouses and storehouses bursting with cloths, copper, and ivory.</p> <p>And so you ask, "Why cloth?" Cloth has many advantages, and we can think of it functioning like a currency; a currency needs to be portable, it needs to be durable, and preferably it needs to be locally produced. The region was described in one late sixteenth-century source as "the land of palms," which was important because raffia palm trees provided the raw materials which weavers then made into threads to create these textiles.</p> <p><strong>Kristen Windmuller-Luna:</strong> Where would the textiles included in the exhibition, which are all luxury items, have fit into the Loango economy?</p> <p><strong>Phyllis M. Martin:</strong> The Maloango and other wealthy and powerful persons controlled the production of cloth. There were certain gradations according to the labor and creativity involved in their production. The Maloango had control over master weavers, and only they were allowed to produce these incredibly high-value, beautiful pieces. There were four or five gradations of fabric, and commoners would wear very simple cloth. When you're exchanging goods, obviously, this kind of luxury cloth is very high value, so it could be used as a currency—it's like a one- or ten- or a hundred-dollar bill. Several could be used together to vary the value in an exchange. A common person might be wearing just a very basic weave—no colors, no design. In our society we also measure people by the clothes that they're wearing; it's of course much of the same thing. There are many commonalities with European society when you stop to think, especially at this time [the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries].”</p> <p>excerpted from: </p> <h3>The Visual Archive: A Historian's Perspective on Kongo and Loango Art</h3> <p><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/en/exhibitions/listings/2015/kongo/blog?auth=Kristen+Windmuller-Luna&st=author">Kristen Windmuller-Luna</a>, 2015–16 Sylvan C. Coleman and Pamela Coleman Memorial Fund Fellow, Department of the Arts of Africa, Oceania, and the Americas; and <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/en/exhibitions/listings/2015/kongo/blog?auth=Phyllis+M.+Martin&st=author">Phyllis M. Martin</a>, Professor Emeritus of History at Indiana University Bloomington</p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-33168752593053726642015-11-11T03:49:00.001-08:002015-11-11T03:49:25.626-08:00Cloth of the month: A rare variant form of Asante adinkra.<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNRvwrwlchqI9kDB1ZhQYFDBoMKxsnre1h-4iTkY-8Cr6ck-Bd8UY5ldoxdtGhqtbGQJGU8mvr4giCczcI9bHoOqn-p-2wX4O8YEx571LLUsuhOlqeOdBOFXPuHhli8WLVm8lJjeXyw7ME/s1600-h/ADK071%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="ADK071" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="ADK071" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lQGggdwQUFc/VkMrPb6FG3I/AAAAAAAAPIc/6hkqXED9T-I/ADK071_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="530" /></a></p> <p>ADK071 -   This is the best example I have seen of a very rare variant of woven ground adinkra cloth, as distinct from typical adinkra that is hand stamped  onto machine woven imported fabric.  This type of cloth usually only has two stamped motifs in alternation, and is usually on an orange and red ground, so a white and black ground example such as this with four different motifs is exceptional. The background cloth is composed of an alternation of two different woven strips - the first is plain black and only 5 cm in width, while the second is much wider at 16cm and white with black weft stripes at regular intervals. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zw4rdM0YrT0/VkMrPkgUzDI/AAAAAAAAPIk/3vH_R_nezMw/s1600-h/ADK071d1%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="ADK071d1" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="ADK071d1" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qZuj-llW_7M/VkMrQdlluHI/AAAAAAAAPIs/UukpdwEEbIE/ADK071d1_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="499" /></a></p> <p>Combining the two creates the grid of black squares that frame the stamped motifs. See my recent book: African Textiles: The Karun Thakar Collection (Prestel 2015) for a similar ground cloth with only two motifs.            <br /> In excellent condition. Dates from early to mid C20th. Measurement: 135 ins x 94, 344 cm x 239.  PRICE: Email for price </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fRa2FImCBGE/VkMrQqA4fMI/AAAAAAAAPI0/QSxYdVavlrU/s1600-h/ADK071d%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="ADK071d" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="ADK071d" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2IdKPMVnnzw/VkMrRP32LiI/AAAAAAAAPI8/19sxpcptY0o/ADK071d_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="216" /></a></p> <p>For more recent acquisitions visit our gallery <a href="http://www.adireafricantextiles.com/core.htm" target="_blank">here</a>.</p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-71616752739454747982015-11-07T03:38:00.001-08:002015-11-07T03:38:29.213-08:00"Made of Straw of Rare Beauty": Kongo Textiles in Renaissance European Collections<p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_fgwCSdcPDI/Vj3ism2zTMI/AAAAAAAAPIA/AdgwYoCLPcs/s1600-h/LuxuryCloth%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="LuxuryCloth" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="LuxuryCloth" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a2NX6-bMkXQ/Vj3itD6xJpI/AAAAAAAAPIE/xQzqPOCWuoc/LuxuryCloth_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="191" /></a></p> <p>Interesting blog post on the Kongo textiles at the Met exhibition by British Museum curator Dora Thornton <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2015/kongo/blog/posts/kongo-textiles-renaissance-european-collections#" target="_blank">here</a></p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-14313300421048590472015-10-20T03:55:00.001-07:002015-10-20T03:55:19.543-07:00A Jukun court official, Wukari, Nigeria<p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GC8DWo7Z2Oo/ViYdkY7ckHI/AAAAAAAAPHM/EpiWAwade7g/s1600-h/wukari%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="wukari" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="wukari" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jUuAMdpyUds/ViYdlKXPtPI/AAAAAAAAPHQ/C6yxY1DYB3I/wukari_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="429" /></a></p> <p>Rare view of  a Jukun court official in his elaborate strip woven cloth. Date and photographer unknown. Source: @artnewsafrica</p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-52124210628091591442015-10-15T04:40:00.001-07:002015-10-15T04:40:59.271-07:00African Textiles: the Karun Thakar Collection<p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c23jHIZoMtk/Vh-QxyMZUrI/AAAAAAAAPGw/tbLUebbeLa4/s1600-h/book%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="book" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="book" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kQiJuEXIQIc/Vh-QymUw-CI/AAAAAAAAPG0/8wSxxw8_pXk/book_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="455" /></a></p> <p>My new book, out now. <em>African Textiles: the Karun Thakar Collection</em>, (Prestel), available now from good bookstores and the usual sources. Main texts and captions are by me, brief foreword by Bernhard Gardi, text in the North Africa section by Dr Miriam Ali-de-Unzaga, and an introduction to his collecting experiences by Karun Thakar. The book is a substantial (320 page) introduction to one of the largest and most important collections of African textiles, with particular strength in West Africa and a number of previously unpublished styles illustrated. </p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-66335004952325299722015-10-10T03:37:00.001-07:002015-10-10T03:37:16.246-07:00Indigo Details<p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IK0EgmrSEu4/VhjqNxLMOFI/AAAAAAAAPEE/06DOoPCeQiw/s1600-h/i01%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img title="i01" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="i01" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8YoFwiF3dt0/VhjqOcJ5cDI/AAAAAAAAPEI/auFBy7eUJLI/i01_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="320" /></a></p> <p>Mossi strip weave, Burkina Faso.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--3tkqmOchyU/VhjqO9nrIuI/AAAAAAAAPEQ/dyqF3Yd2Bbg/s1600-h/i02%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="i02" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="i02" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YwjWlndPzXI/VhjqPYSzOUI/AAAAAAAAPEY/wx_8Lf2qXRs/i02_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="351" /></a></p> <p>Yoruba stitch-resist <em>adire, </em>Nigeria, 1960s.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c2t8jPygsuA/VhjqP_FkirI/AAAAAAAAPEg/J-am6c1vWkY/s1600-h/i03%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="i03" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="i03" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YZHF1ftOhto/VhjqQra8dSI/AAAAAAAAPEo/kDOq7WWZ8pM/i03_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="339" /></a></p> <p>Strip weave, Niger, mid C20th.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-odaTBkw5kfo/VhjqRIcxttI/AAAAAAAAPEw/vj4bgBOwKOY/s1600-h/i04%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="i04" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="i04" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7_eH1p9hvbE/VhjqRgSffrI/AAAAAAAAPE4/fZjcqHWUMt0/i04_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="317" /></a></p> <p>Hausa strip weaves, Nigeria, circa 1970.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U-awztPm2qs/VhjqSIIVO9I/AAAAAAAAPFA/Y1eaqjzL1AM/s1600-h/i05%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="i05" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="i05" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--NEl-1DGiw8/VhjqSxIEjiI/AAAAAAAAPFI/E0tlexFX5t0/i05_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="343" /></a></p> <p>Yoruba strip weave <em>aso oke,</em> Nigeria, early C20th.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V-HNVq6eisQ/VhjqTTYR8II/AAAAAAAAPFQ/xN2DBEFqSaw/s1600-h/i06%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="i06" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="i06" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DeU905E1ysQ/VhjqTsMaYWI/AAAAAAAAPFY/ZWwEmeYmLRw/i06_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="341" /></a></p> <p>Yoruba strip weave <em>aso oke,</em> Nigeria, early C20th.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xAs2m9akPwc/VhjqUZEYQ_I/AAAAAAAAPFg/8e4l4ojS8lM/s1600-h/i07%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="i07" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="i07" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ldIl1ElMcTc/VhjqUg3ikRI/AAAAAAAAPFo/DcoYPhEZq9c/i07_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="318" /></a></p> <p>Yoruba starch resist <em>adire eleko, </em>Nigeria, circa 1960s.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSbTi3pulBvyJNV5FSPdcrwpeHKXbzAqZjCmpW05WTItBzHRJCsI1FnsPuiGNstmXnlJ_Mji0g45qn0aSVLKbdyO9gVjeEfkg2zW18XpetxIM0saIbEMlor1wlM380sM114Rvy2pIyMj2i/s1600-h/i08%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="i08" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="i08" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JhIoiv-N4Jc/VhjqVlTFFPI/AAAAAAAAPF4/RfB6LhEPy4Q/i08_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="354" /></a></p> <p>Hausa stitch resist, Nigeria, circa 1970.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FJuTqG12fJ0/VhjqWAXU67I/AAAAAAAAPGA/k4pWfAMun4Y/s1600-h/i09%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="i09" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="i09" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x447ChedVXQ/VhjqWnPi0sI/AAAAAAAAPGI/KL8blu-rFyk/i09_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="330" /></a></p> <p>Efik stitch resist, Nigeria, mid C20th. </p> <p>Please visit our <a href="http://www.adireafricantextiles.com/afgallery.htm" target="_blank">website</a> to view our selection of indigo cloths. </p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-68478720983994246602015-10-10T02:37:00.001-07:002015-10-10T02:37:40.814-07:00Exhibition: “West Africa: Word, Symbol, Song” at the British Library.<p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V2Yp-YhiX60/VhjcYcLY34I/AAAAAAAAPDs/V4tA8HSnv64/s1600-h/west-africa-624x351%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="west-africa-624x351" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="west-africa-624x351" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PSnd2ufgUpk/VhjcYxY9GXI/AAAAAAAAPDw/TT2oM_lbm30/west-africa-624x351_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="195" /></a></p> <p>An exhibition of literature and music – from the great African empires of the Middle Ages to the cultural dynamism of West Africa today</p> <p>Fascinating stories from the region’s 17 nations show how West Africans have harnessed the power of words to build societies, drive political movements, sustain religious belief and fight injustice.</p> <p>Beautiful manuscripts, historic film and sound recordings, books, photographs, and woven and printed textiles offer a unique insight into a profound and engaging literary culture with centuries-old written heritage existing alongside ancient oral traditions.</p> <p>Hear the myth of the founding of ancient Mali in recorded performance. See the influence of religion through colourful fabric and the saddlebag Qur’an. Celebrate writers and artists including Africa’s first Nobel prize winner, Wole Soyinka, and internationally acclaimed musician and human rights activist Fela Kuti.</p> <p>- See more at: http://www.bl.uk/events/west-africa-word-symbol-song#sthash.SVnDNyAJ.dpuf</p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-4610872244217848162015-10-02T02:47:00.001-07:002015-10-02T02:47:27.739-07:00Asante Silk Kente Cloths<p>While run of the mill Asante kente cloths woven from rayon thread and mostly dating from the 1970s and after are easy to find, top quality silk cloths woven in the early part of the twentieth century are extremely rare and becoming increasingly difficult to source. The images below show a glimpse of some or our current inventory. Full views and more details on our site at <a href="http://www.adireafricantextiles.com/kentegallery.htm" target="_blank">adireafricantextiles.com</a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TefZ1olJlyk/Vg5Sml9VUYI/AAAAAAAAPBM/dqFEe_ZjC_M/s1600-h/K220i%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="K220i" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="K220i" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7zlJ0_23Eig/Vg5SnLIxFZI/AAAAAAAAPBQ/unoY0SL-foA/K220i_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="304" height="304" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jpx-6EcLH9w/Vg5SnlpaJMI/AAAAAAAAPBY/Xqw58MUZJCs/s1600-h/K234i%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="K234i" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="K234i" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0gWPiahCIslmcH_C9Arw9ojNzNryhW43igVHzZa2rGuSWwGEf05u9fme6slSgHDyJGmoSWvlIHRF7WyJ7njdodY91H_cxNTxw10U53YePQOBR6Fci5wsLKyLAIO85YTUBuJ58n5UYTs6/?imgmax=800" width="304" height="304" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EUY3DfJT82A/Vg5SofRmmYI/AAAAAAAAPBo/RvL5DiZ5aGo/s1600-h/K235i%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="K235i" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="K235i" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iimaXzth0jM/Vg5So2qLEwI/AAAAAAAAPBw/J1StTeEM0Io/K235i_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="304" height="304" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F8r7MyJefGY/Vg5SpKCzRXI/AAAAAAAAPB4/LCh6eh4ED14/s1600-h/K237i%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="K237i" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="K237i" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eHGhB9wArag/Vg5SqKz8jXI/AAAAAAAAPCA/fwK81wERRco/K237i_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="304" height="304" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VBSkrk3qlZs/Vg5SqU3Vw7I/AAAAAAAAPCI/4vNBe_s08bM/s1600-h/K255i%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="K255i" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="K255i" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OlsBXnCdqlY/Vg5Sq05e4UI/AAAAAAAAPCQ/Y75zqHps48U/K255i_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="304" height="304" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MC39cMll8oI/Vg5SrLDJWgI/AAAAAAAAPCY/36Piq-4O6mM/s1600-h/K259i%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="K259i" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="K259i" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bQlow2dIbq8/Vg5SrjlfdwI/AAAAAAAAPCg/jmXCLcImvTE/K259i_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="304" height="304" /></a></p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-33557764018801205862015-09-26T03:05:00.001-07:002015-09-26T03:05:39.733-07:00An exceptional silk and cotton Yoruba wrapper.<p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rrBU--plfhU/VgZtzfCDXPI/AAAAAAAAO_M/kIkTJuOWkq4/s1600-h/NW513%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="NW513" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="NW513" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS2Yhlg3TT8pbDXBOL80Po71NsU5N3tu_rw7R4jLTA1kAxOKJtPM9-3plIIONgQ8F5dgHo9gH_yKU9GRpoCDuovhtfHBpWCr8vSiva8x9a0c_ak4YKR8f7He0o17TJM4VC2wgHDUUURsdM/?imgmax=800" width="344" height="408" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_kUAEgBUXZo/VgZt07ASKNI/AAAAAAAAO_Y/xHm3E9S54p0/s1600-h/text170%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="text170" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="text170" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6dya4PRZAzk/VgZt1QWOGwI/AAAAAAAAO_g/sq7yvvlhH1g/text170_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="222" /></a></p> <p>NW513 -Fine and rare Yoruba women's wrapper cloth dating from late C19th or early C20th with an exceptionally complex and subtle array of warp stripes incorporating magenta trans-Saharan silk "alaari" in an indigo dyed hand spun cotton ground. Unlike strip woven aso oke produced by male weavers, these cloths were woven in two wide panels on an upright single heddle loom by a woman weaver. The use of silk in these women's weave wrappers was an established tradition in the C19th and at the start of the C20th, allowing wealthy women to outshine the plainer blue and white style. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9RfNzZx1-ys/VgZt10XprhI/AAAAAAAAO_o/9xdy-0OUCsg/s1600-h/SL074%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="SL074" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="SL074" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ksWF7vr5QyY/VgZt2vDgnrI/AAAAAAAAO_0/h5vxMlFGk6M/SL074_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="527" /></a></p> <p>However today it is extremely hard to find surviving examples and almost all those we do see have been patched or repaired. These cloths are not well represented in museum collections and published sources, reflecting their rarity but one piece collected before 1890 and now in the American Museum of Natural History, New York may be seen <a href="http://anthro.amnh.org/anthropology/databases/common/image_dup.cfm?catno=17%20%20/%20%20%20%202">here.</a> This is a particularly fine completely intact example in excellent condition and with an unusually elaborate configuration of stripes. It would have been an heirloom cloth passed down from mother to daughter over several generations. It retains it's very neat hand stitched seams throughout. Measurements: 78ins x 66ins, 200cm x 168cm</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihp18oi8l8v41Jj1GgSZ1e4imqJ0FVEGgPi-EhioxJ7P4GotXt_9UJ4SuhuMSITw867eWBLRONQMaq0VKSpX3XnSf8vPNxtVEGWFA9_PHT4g6axAXJndQJPKRy7wieQuzYg2vUUkvxjKMJ/s1600-h/NW513a%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="NW513a" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="NW513a" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6GHBLxz1pWY/VgZt4LsbtzI/AAAAAAAAPAA/gczP_l3aJLE/NW513a_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="402" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oSJOQjyPc3U/VgZt4_elGKI/AAAAAAAAPAI/q6SBaIU9nj0/s1600-h/NW513c%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="NW513c" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="NW513c" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G18TRn1BuM0/VgZt5teBJCI/AAAAAAAAPAQ/fmoEzQJpXoY/NW513c_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="259" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6_kK2RrE6Y0/VgZt6rD1WwI/AAAAAAAAPAY/8UPJAa_Qmt4/s1600-h/NW513e%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="NW513e" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="NW513e" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sfps6tE-Ybg/VgZt7K-lfXI/AAAAAAAAPAg/ynCg-SPKiao/NW513e_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="259" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jMc8kvb8k4E/VgZt7787WII/AAAAAAAAPAo/TCF5I1qkYCk/s1600-h/NW513f%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="NW513f" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="NW513f" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qudfo-m84cg/VgZt8nUN-yI/AAAAAAAAPAw/-RpNxvVzlCg/NW513f_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="259" /></a></p> <p>Click on the photos to enlarge.‘ To see this cloth and others in our online gallery of Nigerian women’s weaving click <a href="http://www.adireafricantextiles.com/nigerianwomensgallery.htm" target="_blank">here</a>.</p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-65124046106531451072015-09-24T07:16:00.001-07:002015-09-24T07:16:16.781-07:00Popeye–Japanese Magazine<p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H1_cl1OdmbU/VgQFqznrvSI/AAAAAAAAO-0/eb4O5hesDXk/s1600-h/Image1%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Image1" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="Image1" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xnNodKkfh38/VgQFrrnvdSI/AAAAAAAAO-4/hoPK501q66M/Image1_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="231" /></a></p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-10342336002830580612015-09-23T04:08:00.001-07:002015-09-23T04:08:43.814-07:00Exhibition:- “Seeing Red: World Textiles” in Bloomington, Indiana<p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Mm_MUCFm1s0/VgKIHuZTOWI/AAAAAAAAO9I/YWB-Kbj3LlI/s1600-h/005a_6062%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="005a_6062 Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="005a_6062 Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SB9ga6axkv8/VgKIIZA0aBI/AAAAAAAAO9M/V6Vc6GN5Nug/005a_6062%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="243" /></a></p> <p>Ivy Tech John Waldron Arts Center, Bloomington, Indiana August 28 to September 26, 2015</p> <p>“This September 2015 Lotus Arts and Education Foundation in conjunction with Ivy Tech John Waldron Gallery will present an exhibition of rare and unusual textiles featuring the color red. “Seeing Red: World Textiles” features over forty hand woven and constructed textiles dating from Egyptian to modern times. Seven Indiana collectors -- Suzanne Halvorson, Joan Hart, William Itter, Barbara Livesey, Harold Mailand, and George Malacinski, met this past February to review and select textiles from their collections composed of every shade of red. All of the textiles revealed that red can be a dominant color that shapes and defines a textile’s ingenious construction and cultural prominence. Not only is red a color of great optical range, it is a color of many personal, emotional, and theoretical meanings. This exhibit ventures to explore the diversity of red and its identity as a beautiful color. This exhibit opens Friday, August 28th, and concludes Saturday, September 26th, the weekend of Lotus World Music and Arts Festival (see: lotusfest.org).”</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rSEKuFfs_QA/VgKIIwpr6tI/AAAAAAAAO9U/k3yg-uXK4dg/s1600-h/002a_6055%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="002a_6055 Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="002a_6055 Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eC-BBG_N8ro/VgKIJoJqhmI/AAAAAAAAO9c/exTSeJF0Ln0/002a_6055%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="242" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HyjSRKR2G-M/VgKIKKy_nWI/AAAAAAAAO9k/2qhtEpBqjy4/s1600-h/001_6102%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="001_6102 Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="001_6102 Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cDSb92t_NJo/VgKIK28caMI/AAAAAAAAO9s/H8E-7uZgvcU/001_6102%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="238" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_st6rC18_Ck/VgKILS4nksI/AAAAAAAAO90/Q32MWbWMoRs/s1600-h/004a_6060%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="004a_6060 Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="004a_6060 Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KFJOqJtRNrk/VgKIMNeu_WI/AAAAAAAAO98/gBvEPIgtg6U/004a_6060%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="185" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-njg6Tz4gwsU/VgKIMlkmP9I/AAAAAAAAO-E/hGvu0uhgGQo/s1600-h/008b_6080%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="008b_6080 Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="008b_6080 Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--tAuEn0rq4A/VgKINkJyLUI/AAAAAAAAO-M/wxv2MlWO_1E/008b_6080%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="239" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8hy4M2CWSBg/VgKIN4PlhJI/AAAAAAAAO-Q/dgs2NrHGglg/s1600-h/011c_6085%252520Huari%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="011c_6085 Huari Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="011c_6085 Huari Seeing Red- World Textiles 9-2015" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xS6y7reLzJ4/VgKIOZNHggI/AAAAAAAAO-Y/E5ofCQrPdnM/011c_6085%252520Huari%252520Seeing%252520Red-%252520World%252520Textiles%2525209-2015_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="400" /></a></p> <p>Click on the photos to enlarge. All photos © William Itter. </p> <p>Please don’t share without permission.</p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-19899704937311622702015-09-18T03:30:00.001-07:002015-09-18T03:30:59.525-07:00“Kongo: Power and Majesty” at the Met.<p><font size="3">I already mentioned the show but this important exhibition really is a unique, once in a lifetime, opportunity to view many of the earliest surviving African textiles, drawn together from numerous  museum collections across Europe. A few years ago I went all the way to Ulm to see the cloth below (okay and a couple of others.) Don’t miss it !</font></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KIWTRf3mqrE/Vfvnxz32ZAI/AAAAAAAAO7U/_GO7MQXyw6c/s1600-h/UlmerMuseum_001%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="UlmerMuseum_001" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="UlmerMuseum_001" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fcK1IGIrn0g/VfvnzLnLBxI/AAAAAAAAO7Y/yuSSHeYDN6Q/UlmerMuseum_001_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="406" /></a></p> <p><strong>Date:</strong> 16th–17th century, inventoried 1659</p> <p><strong>Geography:</strong> Democratic Republic of the Congo; Angola; Republic of the Congo <strong>Culture:</strong> Kongo peoples; Kongo Kingdom <strong>Medium:</strong> Raffia <strong>Dimensions:</strong> L. 75 9/16 in. (192 cm), H. 59 7/16 in (151 cm) [excluding 5 1/2 in (14 cm) perimeter fringe ] <strong>Classification:</strong> Textiles-Woven <strong>Credit Line:</strong> Kunst- und Wunderkammer des Christoph Weickmann, Ulmer Museum, Ulm, Germany</p> <p>Note that this astonishingly fine cloth above is almost two metres square – looking at the photos it is too easy to visualize it as the small Kuba squares that we are so familiar with.</p> <p> </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RHD26-heI4c/VfvnzrZAWyI/AAAAAAAAO7g/TdiYYcfAwD8/s1600-h/es_Dc_107_front%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="es_Dc_107_front" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="es_Dc_107_front" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XXHZffNB0Q0/Vfvn0Vvs3FI/AAAAAAAAO7o/hUc-1OzqI2c/es_Dc_107_front_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="332" /></a></p> <h4>Luxury Cloth: Cushion Cover</h4> <p><strong>Date:</strong> 17th–18th century, inventoried 1737. <strong>Geography:</strong> Democratic Republic of the Congo; Angola; Republic of the Congo <strong>Culture:</strong> Kongo peoples; Kongo Kingdom. <strong>Medium:</strong> Raffia <strong>Dimensions:</strong> 21 1/4 in. (54 cm) × 21 1/4 in. (54 cm)<strong>Classification:</strong> Textiles-Woven <strong>Credit Line:</strong> Nationalmuseet, Copenhagen</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pMh6rrsT5V4/Vfvn1NpaBUI/AAAAAAAAO7w/3LSdLb05yow/s1600-h/Dc123_Front%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Dc123_Front" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="Dc123_Front" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lxkX4Kf6IxE/Vfvn1mmHWRI/AAAAAAAAO74/fx094p3dnyI/Dc123_Front_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="339" /></a></p> <h4>Prestige Cap (Mpu)</h4> <p><strong>Date:</strong> 16th–17th century, inventoried 1674 <strong>Geography:</strong> Democratic Republic of the Congo; Angola; Republic of the Congo <strong>Culture:</strong> Kongo peoples; Kongo Kingdom <strong>Medium:</strong> Raffia or pineapple fiber <strong>Dimensions:</strong> H. 7 1/8 (18 cm), Diam. 5 7/8 in. (15 cm) <strong>Classification:</strong> Textiles-Non-Woven <strong>Credit Line:</strong> Nationalmuseet, Copenhagen</p> <p> </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OpRKZ3nt3sY/Vfvn2XW0f9I/AAAAAAAAO8A/Q586n-U0V-w/s1600-h/DP340978%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="DP340978" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="DP340978" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TJ_rY6O0jeo/Vfvn3Lthk5I/AAAAAAAAO8I/03G6n6_cS8k/DP340978_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="375" /></a></p> <h4>Prestige Cap (Mpu)</h4> <p><strong>Date:</strong> 17th–18th century, inventoried 1876  <strong>Geography:</strong> Democratic Republic of the Congo; Republic of the Congo; Angola <strong>Culture:</strong> Kongo peoples <strong>Medium:</strong> Raffia or pineapple fiber <strong>Dimensions:</strong> H. 8 7/8 in. (22.5 cm), Diam. 6 1/4 in. (15.9 cm) <strong>Classification:</strong> Textiles-Non-Woven <strong>Credit Line:</strong> MIBACT-–Polo Museale del Lazio, Museo Preistorico Etnografico Luigi Pigorini, Rome</p> <p> </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oHBvqvZhEW8/Vfvn3_-a5TI/AAAAAAAAO8M/jJGpe0y-ycA/s1600-h/01596626001_H%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="01596626001_H" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="01596626001_H" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m4l-gVC7KOE/Vfvn4fAIwYI/AAAAAAAAO8U/YQz5KD3VpCo/01596626001_H_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="447" /></a></p> <h4>Garment (Nkutu)</h4> <p><strong>Date:</strong> 19th century, inventoried 1853 <strong>Geography:</strong> Democratic Republic of the Congo; Angola; Republic of the Congo <strong>Culture:</strong> Kongo peoples <strong>Medium:</strong> Raffia. <strong>Dimensions:</strong> 31 1/8 × 49 1/4 in. (79 × 125 cm) <strong>Classification:</strong> Textiles-Costumes <strong>Credit Line:</strong> British Museum, London</p> <p> </p> <p><font size="3"> </font></p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-78746516419633394462015-09-08T02:52:00.001-07:002015-09-08T02:52:28.609-07:00Cloth of the month: A fine blue and white Asante kente.<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMIO6NRfzRxa95CG4iqSMdy9OhD8ujcuOwD4L5L9MDX4zad9vlyZEs07ElJkQy3QDX-hQ4SqjOLA5ojFXD3skmQg1aaiWDG4eeGcgfatyjOAa4ssLwxkhpSfgX4uJu3G2w8o-KhPzuVfyW/s1600-h/K260%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="K260" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="K260" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pka3ncTEbsg/Ve6v1ichrII/AAAAAAAAO6Y/Db_Gk8_Tayc/K260_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="563" /></a></p> <p>K260 - Exceptional Asante mixed strip blue and white cotton kente cloth. Composed of four repeats of six different strip patterns, this cloth is notable both for the fine quality of the weaving and for the addition of borders (a feature not usually found on Asante blue and white cloths of this type.) The interaction between the blue extra weft float motifs that make up the border and the different blue and white patterns beneath makes a subtle and interesting visual impact. In excellent complete condition. Dates from early to mid C20th. Measurement: 127 ins x 75, 323 cm x 190.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LFiAYbXMCt4/Ve6v2M2fKZI/AAAAAAAAO6g/vfeSKKe_qoo/s1600-h/K260d%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="K260d" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="K260d" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6cKqq5B1uV4/Ve6v2ivRYOI/AAAAAAAAO6o/EG8nr2XLTUE/K260d_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="447" /></a></p> <p>Click on the photos to enlarge. See this cloth on our <a href="http://www.adireafricantextiles.com/newgallery.htm" target="_blank">New Acquisitions Gallery</a> or visit our <a href="http://www.adireafricantextiles.com/kentegallery.htm" target="_blank">Asante Kente Gallery</a>.  </p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3842834058715698204.post-44062207975952975862015-08-27T03:41:00.001-07:002015-08-27T03:41:54.870-07:00“Kongo: Power and Majesty” at the Met Museum<p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O1jUNDwFImM/Vd7paJnj_EI/AAAAAAAAO5I/JwhND9yrkjM/s1600-h/Kongo_DigitalAssets_PosterImage%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Kongo_DigitalAssets_PosterImage" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="Kongo_DigitalAssets_PosterImage" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MCc7Dq5QV54/Vd7pahd0R-I/AAAAAAAAO5M/j55UvP0TT30/Kongo_DigitalAssets_PosterImage_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="571" /></a></p> <h3>Kongo</h3> <h4>Power and Majesty</h4> <h6>September 18, 2015–January 3, 2016</h6> <p>“Central Africa's Kongo civilization is responsible for one of the world's greatest artistic traditions. This international loan exhibition will explore the region's history and culture through 134 of the most inspired creations of Kongo masters from the sixteenth through the early twentieth century.</p> <p>The earliest of these creations were diplomatic missives sent by Kongo sovereigns to their European counterparts during the Age of Exploration; they took the form of delicately carved ivories and finely woven raffia cloths embellished with abstract geometric patterns. Admired as marvels of human ingenuity, such Kongo works were preserved in princely European<em>Kunstkammer</em>, or cabinets of curiosities, alongside other precious and exotic creations from across the globe.</p> <p>Kongo luxury arts from the sixteenth through the eighteenth century—many of which have never been exhibited before—will give an unprecedented historical backdrop to the outstanding work produced by master sculptors active in the same region during the nineteenth century. The array of figurative representations they produced range from miniature ivory finials for the staffs of office of Kongo leaders to the carved-wood commemorative shrine figures positioned above their burial sites.</p> <p>The presentation will culminate with a gathering of fifteen monumental Mangaaka power figures produced in the Chiloango River region during the second half of the nineteenth century; these will include the <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/320053">celebrated example</a> acquired by the Met in 2008, the original catalyst for the exhibition. For the first time, this electrifying form of expression will be understood as a defensive measure conceived by Kongo leaders to deflect Western incursions into this region of Central Africa.</p> <p>With works drawn from sixty institutional and private lenders across Europe and the United States, <em>Kongo: Power and Majesty</em> will relate the objects on view to specific historical developments and will challenge misconceptions of Africa's relationship with the West. In doing so, it will offer a radical, new understanding of Kongo art over the last five hundred years.”</p> <p>This important exhibition will bring together an unprecedented number of the earliest surviving Central African textiles, dating from the 16th to 18th centuries, from European collections, including the pieces from Ulm Museum, Germany and the the Kungliga Samlingarna, Sweden, shown below. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i4sW_Nbxhw4/Vd7pa4GNT2I/AAAAAAAAO5U/9LheLa_ifNY/s1600-h/UlmerMuseum_001%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="UlmerMuseum_001" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="UlmerMuseum_001" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-erlPWs0ZiNQ/Vd7pbRpBlLI/AAAAAAAAO5c/bHcEkTabG5c/UlmerMuseum_001_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="344" height="406" /></a></p> <p>Luxury Cloth. Kongo peoples; Kongo Kingdom, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Republic of the Congo, or Angola, 16th–17th century, inventoried 1659. Raffia, H. 755⁄8 in. (192 cm), W. 591⁄2 in. (151 cm), L. of fringe 51⁄2 in. (14 cm). Kunst- und Wunderkammer des Christoph Weickmann, Ulmer Museum, Ulm, Germany (AV D. 48) </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T0-o90V3y2Y/Vd7pb5BneLI/AAAAAAAAO5k/lKe6ARiBq4o/s1600-h/HGK_TxI_164_09204%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="HGK_TxI_164_09204" style="border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px" border="0" alt="HGK_TxI_164_09204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-qmpZdn3nUAH4qaOJuUVWK6fZJz4gaLqTLLp2QiItjJ3VBy5rDxni8pF96nc76I6ACrJl4I9pVJSZ3IeyEApxD8louOA46nvQKo50d52zcDysn_bA7Hk69cvLescGck5sTbaqVXijttMw/?imgmax=800" width="344" height="337" /></a></p> <p>Luxury Cloth: Cushion Cover. Kongo peoples; Kongo Kingdom, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Republic of the Congo, or Angola, 16th–17th century, inventoried 1670. Raffia, 191⁄4 × 197⁄8 in. (49 × 50.5 cm). Kungliga Samlingarna, Sweden (HGK, Tx I, 164) </p> Duncan Clarkehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06457993657398115321noreply@blogger.com0